Ask The Professor Archives Part 3

What do you have for optimized irons for lefties? I was reading through the Ask Jack archives and noticed you build clubs using a DCI similar head.

Yes, there was a picture and specification attached.

I would like to have a 3 iron built to see how much I would benefit from your clubs, would the cost be $150 graphite?

The heads cost me more than my Kuykendall designed heads because I am purchasing them one at a time from another supplier. The cost is $150 each with graphite shafts.

Are those heads bendable for lie, at least 2 degrees?

YES.

Lever power has been a rejuvination of golf for me. I'm a 4 handicap thats been frustrated with conventional golf and tired of the pain associated with all of the torque and rotation. Now I gained distance, accuracy and dont have to limp to the car after playing.

I'm glad you're achieving your goals. However, It's not magic, it science. When science is applied, it works.

On televised golf events most pros use graphite drivers and steel shafted irons? Why??

JK: With traditional swing weight and frequency matching assembly, a graphite shaft, being lighter, makes the overall weight of the club too light and tour players lose their trained sensations. It is why all the less than 10 ounces drivers are gone.

Which is the better?

JK: When scientific assembly is used (total weight, 1st and 2nd moment of inertia all the same), graphite allows for more distance and a higher trajectory.

Is the flex comparisons similar, e.g., R FLEX graphite to R FLEX steel?

JK: No. you need to use a frequency machine to determine the flex.

Because tour players shoot the incredibly low numbers they do, you'd think that their equipment is optimized. It is NOT! They just get use to a certain sensation and stay with it. If they played with scientifically optimized clubs, they would shoot even lower numbers.

First of all thank you so much for your invaluable input, it has helped my game immensely. I'm about to convert one of my sets to your specs (lengthen shaft and more upright) and wanted to simply ask you which one you would advice.

Lengthening the shaft by two inches and moving your left hand up provides a mechanical advantage. Because you will , in general, be moving your hands farther away from you body, the clubs may need to flatter than more upright. Use a lie board and check each club.

I'm actually left-handed and have a set of Callaway -14's and Mizuno Comp EZ's, both with Graphite shafts. Are there any advantages/disadvantages converting one or the other?

I am not familiar with either of these heads. Use the one with the smallest blade and the lowest center of gravity.

Unfortunately I'm currently not in a position to buy your clubs (and as I understand they don't yet come in left-handed, right?)

That is correct -- I do not have left handed Kuykendall designed irons.

I'm real close to getting LPG. My irons are real accurate but short. My woods are wild and short. I recently relaxed my hands on the grip so my hands would react to the triceps contracting. Is this correct. Will this help my forearm rotation?

JK: Unless it is extreme grip pressure, it should have very little effect. If you do not have distance, you are not making the power move. Revisit section 9 in the Kinesiology section (of Kuykendall Golf).

It seemed to help my longer clubs distance and accuracy. I used to have alot of tension in my hands and wrists because i was pushing down and back with my hands. Should I have a soft grip so my forearms will REACT?

JK: Your grip pressure should be adequate to hold on to the club with no slipping in either hand at any part of the swing.

I have a question for you concerning the golf industry.

I realize that you give one on one lessons, yet you are not the golf pro for the course that you give lessons. In order to teach golf without being the full time pro at the course, does the course get a percentage of what you make on lessons? Do you pay a fee to use their range and course? How does this system generally work?

JK: There is no one answer to your question. Every place is different. The biggest obstacle you will have is finding a place to teach. There are around 17,000 places to practice and already over 50,000 golf instructors.

I am currently in the military. I have a degree in Psychology and another in Turf Management. I would like to get certified to instruct once done with my military obligation. Could you help explain the process and the direction to take.

JK: I have a certification program for anyone who wants to teach. However, if you are not already in the golf industry and have a place to teach, the chance of you actually becoming a certified instructor is very low - not impossible -- but very low. Contact me when you get out of the military for discussion.

I hit my short and medium irons right on. Will make a hole in one soon thanks to LPG. My 3,4 irons and woods are not so good--usually parallel right or small snap hook. Any advice?

Both of these result from incorrect forearm rotation. The club head must move outward at 10 degrees as the forearms rotate the club head through impact. The push is not rotating. The hook comes from stopping the hands and collapsing the left wrist at impact.

Regarding the question referred to below, I agree with the reader. When I swing in to out, I expect the ball to go right, and it usually does. I bet many other readers need help on this. Could you please explain how swinging in to out produces straight shots.

JK: The angle is 10 degrees in to out with both the sponges and the vision-track. There may be a small draw on the shot with some golfers due to the rotation of the forearms through impact.

However, I personally hit the ball straight with this method and so do my students.

Buying the sponges does not answer the question.

JK: Oh, yes it does! If you hit through my sponges (or ones you make yourself), you will find that the ball goes straight.

Here is the question Jerry is referring to --

  I found the iron heads (Titlest DCI clones) you recommended to Mr. Ed Sumner. Do you rate these better than the Golfsmith Tour Cavity Pro iron heads (1050 carbon steel)?

These are both acceptable heads.

Also, is forged better, or is it personal preference?

Personal preference. Forged is marketing hype. All face inserts are marketing hype. Once you have a hard metal that does not distort or absorb energy, there is virtually no difference in performance. Forged irons usually have a softer sound than steel and still softer than titanium.

Are you advocating a swing path that actually travels from inside the line to outside the line after impact for straight shots? This seems to defy physics. In to out with the face square to the path should be a straight push and in to out with the face closed to the path is a hook.

JK: Only if you impart enough side spin to make the ball hook. It appears that a 10 degree in to out swing does not impart enough spin. When I want to intentionally want to hook or fade a ball, I have over a 30 degree path to face difference.

What am I missing?

Experiments (real golfers hitting real balls) versus theory.

I am fascinated by the "success stories" of those who seem to have benefited from using your LPG method.

JK: There are many who have made gains that the traditional teaching establishment cannot comprehend.

I am just wondering whether you have received any feedback from others who have failed to gain any advantages from the LPG.

JK: I have received around 1% of the LPG kits back within the 30 day guarantee time. Over 90% did not use the LPG Trainer. They just looked at the video and decided not to try. Of the few who tried and still returned the kits and put in note, it was always something of the order of, "It did not feel good to them."

I have been playing seriously or 5 years and for the last two years I seem to have hit a wall and do not see further improvement in my ball-striking. There have been very few rounds when I could honestly say that I hit the ball perfectly. Although I still play to a handicap index of 12.5, I have to play very conservatively in order to avoid doubles or triples in order to play to my handicap. This means I sometimes have to sacrificed distance in order to avoid trouble although I have the chance to hit the greens with my second shots.
My questions are: if I switch to your LPG method how much do I have to change .

JK: You have to change the same amount with any system. Whatever neuronal movement patterns you now have must be changed to new ones.

and how long will it take before I see results?

JK: If you purchase all the training aids and perform the IRON LAW drills from the web site kuykendallgolf.com. you can establish usable neuronal patterns in as little as 30 days.

Do I have to make a major overhaul in my setup and swing and what are the basic things I need to purchase in order to learn your method?

JK: Since I do not know how you current setup, I can't answer that question. My objective with the training aids it to make you your own teacher. Once you understand the golf stroke, the mechanics are laughably simple. With the web site, the videos and training aid, anyone can improve his mechanics and scoring.

Also, I currently play the Taylor made 320 driver and 320 irons.

JK: They will work fine for learning and playing the system. I always suggest my larger grips.

Are these clubs comparable to those Impact Clubs of yours?

JK: There are no clubs that can compare to the IMPACT clubs. The technology I am using is beyond what the golf industry understands. It appears that Jorgensen (Physics of Golf) and I are the only two people who understand how to use science to optimally weight and assemble clubs.

Lastly do you ship overseas to a country like Malaysia and how does one make payment?

I ship all over the world. I accept, credit card, checks (I have never been given a bad one), and even on rare occasions, cash.

My friend and I want to know your opinion of a stiff versus regular shaft question. He says if you hit a regular shaft straight, going to a stiff shaft will make you hook the ball because the club has less whip. I say the stiffer club would slice or fade with the same swing. Which is it?

There is so much HYPE about shafts that it can boggle anyone's mind. Science show that almost every claim made by shaft manufacturers is exaggerated.

My experiments show that you only need the following:

1. Torque of 4 degrees or less.
2. Stiffness to produce desired trajectory.

A stiff shaft hits the ball low. A flexible shaft hits the ball high. You adjust to both within 100 swings. Neither makes a ball hook or slice. Hooks and slices comes from path to face orientation at impact. The shaft has virtually nothing to do with that.

I am looking for a copy of the tape where you discuss science and myths. I had a copy and unfortunately lent it out. Now I can't get it back. It was done when you were with Natural Golf and was hosted by an old television broadcaster and included some discussions with Moe Norman.

The tape was titled "Why it Works (The Natural Golf Science)". The televison broadcaster was Lou Palmer. Natural Golf's management removed it from the market after Their LEGAL takeover of the company in September of 1995. They now are proud that they have moved away from science.

The Kuykendall.Com Internet science magazine covers all the science I had on the video and much, much more.

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